Saturday, February 8, 2014

In Search of The Wholly Grain: Part 1

Did you know that most of the wheat grown in California is cut and sold as hay for livestock?
And that durum wheat growing in Riverside County is exported to Italy, to make pasta products, which are then sold back to us?

On Thursday night, February 6th, host Laura Avery, from KCRW's "Good Foods" radio program, and supervisor of the Santa Monica Farmer's Market, led a panel discussion called "Growing Glorious Grains", at the Santa Monica Public Library. In this informative session,  farmers and bakers discussed the revival of wheat farming, and the importance of eating whole grains. Among the panelists was Andrea Crawford of Kenter Family Farms, located in Fillmore, California.
Laura Avery(far right), leads a panel discussion with wheat farmers and artisan bakers from Southern California

Wheat is not the first crop that comes to mind when we think of California farms. The average consumer has no idea of how much wheat is actually grown in our fields. But most of what is grown is actually cut in its green stage, and sold as hay for animals. Why? Because it's much less labor intensive and more profitable than milling the wheat to sell to bakers. But, small batch wheat farmers and millers have resurged their efforts to increase interest in eating whole grains again. Farmers, like Andrea Crawford grow varietal heritage grains, mill it, and then bake it to create true "artisan" style bread. This is an entire "Farm-to-Table" process in its most literal source, from seed, to production.

The process of turning wheat into food took up much of the discussion by the panelists. Several, intricate steps are involved in turning wheat to edible products, beginning with proper grain storage, to cleaning the wheat, to finally milling it, which in itself can take up to several grinds. This is not like what mass producers make. And that is why small batch bakers charge much higher, to produce a high-quality, naturally processed product. Most of us are used to using overly processed, all-purpose white flour for a variety of baking needs. But as one panelist described it "Nothing beats the amazing aroma that comes from freshly ground whole grain". The same can't be said about the "odorless", bleached, and overly-processed, white flour.  The over-processing of the white flour alone involves stripping the wheat of its most nutritious "endosperm". And, guess what?  It is that stripping of vital nutrients that is said to be directly related to things like gluten intolerance (and a myriad other digestive problems).

Therefore, whole grain (and not whole wheat), is what you should look for, when buying breads, or any other baking products. It is best to look for organic wheat, barley, rye, and other grains within the ingredient list. And, as always, the lesser number of ingredients (generally 3 and not more for breads), the better it is for you!

At the end of the presentation, we were invited to sample an array of baked breads made by the panelist bakers.

Samples of baked breads and crackers using single (Sonora) whole grain
 



 
 

Wednesday, February 5, 2014

Fish Head Soup: Winter is Here...

We have finally reached temps in L.A. where we can say, please bring on the soups and stews! But while 30's and 40's overnight temps may still seem nothing compared to the blizzards endured out east, Angelenos can at least have a reason to try some new, hearty, winter recipes! Soups, broths, comforting warm dishes come to mind. Like fish head soup for example....

Wait, did you just say, fish HEAD soup?

While it may sound creepy to some, fish head soup can be incredibly delicious, and also quite nutritious.
Pink snapper or bass are both decent choices for preparing fish head soup
In many cultures around the world, the whole body of the fish is used in cooking, and very few parts(if any) are spared. Unfortunately, here in the American markets, we are so used to purchasing that which is convenient and easiest to prepare, that we truly miss out on the rest of the fish. Fish that has already been filleted is simply easier to prepare and consume. But we forget that there is so much more flavor and nutrition hiding in the rest of the fish, and its parts.

Take, for example, the head of the fish. It contains cartilage, skin, and meat that is packed with higher levels of Omega 3 oils. When simmered, those nutrients literally leach out to blend perfectly with the rest of the ingredients like fresh ginger, pepper, mushrooms, and lime juice.

This home cook from New Zealand, in the video below,  demonstrates how to make a fairly easy Thai-inspired fish head soup, step by step. What I like about his presentation is what he accomplishes in a small space, by engaging us, without fuss, and with good instructions. Most of the ingredients he uses can be found in supermarkets, or otherwise in whole food/organic markets.

I've tried this recipe several times. It is simple enough to make on a work/weeknight. The result is a hearty fish base (without being too fishy), with a well-developed, sweet and spicy flavor profile, along with some fish meat, for some protein intake.


To make this recipe a success:
#1: Get a good meaty head of fish from your local fish monger(call ahead and ask if they can save a head or two for you after they fillet their batches). Farm-raised does not necessarily mean farm-to-table, in this scenario!  But, it's not a bad thing either. I've always preferred wild-caught fish. That is my preference. Depending on what's fresh and available in your area, you can opt for something like snapper, sea bass, or even trout. The meatier the fish head the better. An alternative is to buy your favorite fish whole, have them cut off the head and wrap it separately. Or, do your own filleting at home, and freeze the fish head for another time.

#2:  No boiling. A slow simmer will allow the extraction of flavor and nutrients from the bony parts of the fish head.  Boiling will actually make the fishiness come out, (not as delicate in flavor).

#3:  Be open-minded. Trust that the flavor is going to be pretty awesome, once you have completed the recipe step-by-step, just as the cook in the video demonstrates.

Ingredients used in this recipe:
Fish head~  Water~ Raw sugar~  Shallots~ Kefir lime leaves~ Sweet chili sauce~  Lemon grass stalks~ Fresh ginger~  Mushrooms ~ Cherry tomatoes~ Fish sauce~ Green onions.

Sunday, February 2, 2014

Hollywood Farmer's Market: Less Glamour, More Substance!

Upon first glance, the Hollywood Farmer's Market seems heavy on food stands and artists, and light on actual produce and sustainably grown products.  But, once you meander through its several alleys and expanded sections, you'll find a beautiful selection of colorful, farm-fresh produce and unique, artisanal products. Easily twice the size of the Silverlake one, Hollywood Farmer's Market serves its local, eclectic residents every Sunday from 8am-1pm.
Location: 1600 Ivar St, Los Angeles, 90028.


Our neighbors up north in the Santa Ynez valley bringing fresh, organic greens




My favorite goat cheese guy- Owner Julian Pearce of SOLEDAD Goat Cheese and Goat Farm


Just a day old!





Juicy!


Awesome art using foliage and repurposed pieces, by Justin Bowen, of Compound Collective L.A.

Local artist Alexandra Kube displays her gorgeous work

Great live music and fun people